Well Warrior I: L96: Take Apart Guide
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What does this Tutorial cover? / Equipment used
This tutorial explains how to disassemble your Well made Warrior I: L96 airsoft rifle which is a direct clone of the Maruzen Type 96 rifle (this tutorial should work for it as well).
The Warrior I: L96 by Well. Not stock paint.
The BE-Tech version of this rifle is slightly different and I believe that the BE version does not have a serviceable cylinder like the Well (don’t quote me on that).
Separation of Barrel Assembly and Stock
If you received your Warrior I new then you should be able to do this on your own because you had to put it together in the first place. Either way here we go.
Flip your rifle over. There are two allen headed bolts in the stock. One just behind the trigger and one just behind the mag well. You should of received the correct allen wrench with the rifle. Unscrew those bolts (they will not come out of the stock, they are molded in).
Rear Allen Bolt behind Trigger
Front Allen Bolt behind Mag Well
Now that you have the bolts unscrewed. Flip your rifle back over (right-side up) and pull the barrel assembly up and out of the stock. You can now place the stock out of the way, you won’t need it until you put the rifle back together.
Barrel Assembly Take Apart
Next we need to take the trigger mech off. There is a screw on the front and the back side of the trigger mechanism that needs to be pulled out. Then pull up on the trigger lock (might take some force) which comes all the way out. After those are released the trigger mechanism will simply lift out and your bolt is now free. Remove the bolt and set it aside, we will dive into it later. View pictures below.
Remove Screws, Pull up on Trigger Lock (it will come completely out.
Pull the bolt out and set it aside.
Now that the bolt is removed we can dismantle the barrel further. Find the mag lock mechanism and remove the sing screw that holds it to the barrel (the mag lock mech also keeps the inner barrel straight up and down within the outer barrel).
Remove mag lock screw, then remove mag lock.
The inner barrel is now free floating. Grip with one hand the outer barrel and with the other hand the upper receiver. You can now unscrew the barrel from the upper receiver. These are very fine threads and there are allot of them, it will take a little bit of time to unscrew it fully.
NOTE: it would help to put some silicon on the threads when you screw the outer barrel back into the upper receiver. You will also notice that when you put the rifle back together you do not screw the outer barrel into the upper receiver until it stops, you must line it up straight with the upper which is just shy of fully tightened.
Unscrew the Outer Barrel from the Upper Receiver. YOU SHOULD NOT HAVE TO loosen the allen nut that is displayed here with the allen wrench in it.
Now that the Outer Barrel is separated from the Upper Receiver you can get the inner barrel out. If you have not taken the orange tip of your rifle off you need to now. It just pops off. Then you need to unscrew the cap that was under the orange tip. Just grip it hard, it will let go. Remove that cap and use something like a long screwdriver to push the inner barrel out from the back (pushing on the hopup assembly. Remove the inner barrel completely.
Remove barrel cap by unscrewing it from the outer barrel.
Push and Pull the inner barrel out of the outer barrel.
Your inner barrel and hopup is now out of your rifle. Not that this is a standard 500mm barrel so you could get a tight bore if you choose to do so and put it in with no problem.
The Cylinder
Taking apart the cylinder was very easy. Retrieve the bolt that we set aside earlier. If you look at the nozzle there are two holes in it, one on each side of the nozzle tip. You can stick two allen wrenches into these holes (use allen wrenches that fit snug) and by putting a screwdriver between them you can create a point of leverage to start the unscrewing of the nozzle from the cylinder. It is easier if someone holds the cylinder while the other person unscrews the cap.
WARNING: My spring was under only a very small amount of tension and did not shoot off when the nozzle came free. However this does not mean that yours is not. Keep your eyes away from the nozzle, best to wear safety glasses incase anything shoots off.
Unscrew the nozzle.
Once you remove the nozzle the internal workings of the cylinder are now free to slide out. Below is a picture of the internals laid out in order.
From top to bottom: Bolt, spring, piston, nozzle.
Reassembly
Putting it back together is done by following the steps above in reverse. That simple.
April 24th, 2008 at 9:04 pm
what should I do to make the gun more accurate, because my bullets bend randomly after 40 feet?
April 24th, 2008 at 10:51 pm
Has it always curved after 40 feet? If so you may have a bent barrel. We have run into this problem a few times with the AGM/JG version L96. You can read about it in the review on that weapon. Sadly you cannot (as far as we know) get the type of barrel that these L96’s use. You may be stuck with buying a new rifle. First however make sure the barrel is completely cleaned out (they usually have quite a bit of junk left over from the milling process) inside. If it still is not shooting right you may want to dismantle the hopup unit and clean the entire length of the barrel. Good luck!
November 19th, 2008 at 9:17 am
hi i have an agm l96 and i took the trigger mech apart and now the cylinder wont cock can u please help me wit this problem u can email me at bxsnipercrew@aol.com
January 4th, 2009 at 2:51 am
i too would like a run down of the trigger assembly. just as a refrence. any help would be great. shadowdsd@yahoo.com
January 4th, 2009 at 5:16 pm
armando and tac,
Unfortunately we no longer have a Well: L96. So we will not be able to get pictures of the Trigger Mechbox.
January 13th, 2009 at 7:13 pm
i have a warrior l96 and i pull the cock back and now it wont go all the way back forward….
January 13th, 2009 at 7:17 pm
outlaw,
This happened to me during a match several months ago. The weapon had double fed 2 rounds. One was preventing the bolt from going back forward. You might want to check that out.
February 5th, 2009 at 6:13 am
is the trigger mech plastic or metal on this gun? and do u think this is worth the buy? or will it just break like most other acm’s
February 7th, 2009 at 3:46 pm
This is worth it for sure.
I have played half a year with one without any problems at all.
Worked well in a snowy and cold environment.
March 4th, 2009 at 6:30 pm
if you have this gun use .12 high quality bbs because i have the gun and it increases accuracy, and the fps will go over 500.
March 11th, 2009 at 2:19 pm
Hi guys,
Thanks for great tutorial, really useful and only one of its kind on the net! Its nice to have some support for this rifle after all this time, the only bit of the tutorial which was difficult was removing the brass head cylinder thing. Its very difficult to find two allen keys which fit snugly and its quite stiff, I recommend using a pair of plyers with pointed tips (sometimes called beaky) to leaver it, be careful not to bend the brass holes as brass is quite a soft metal.
Thanks
Callum
March 14th, 2009 at 6:21 am
I must say, that I can not agree with you in 100%, but it’s just my opinion, which could be wrong.
p.s. You have a very good template . Where have you got it from?
March 26th, 2009 at 12:49 am
my triggerbox also broken but i just go to my friend and replce it with metal one now it cannot be broken if you want to know where to go just email me at … ten_tenpascual@yahoo.com
March 26th, 2009 at 12:50 am
where can i buy spring of my warrior 1?
April 24th, 2009 at 9:47 pm
Not to be mean but when i read over the comments i saw the one telling people to use .12 gram bbs. soory but one blow of wind and that sucker is not going where you want it to go. The truth is the heavier the bb the more accurate it will be! It may lower fps but never is the .12 gram more accurate than the .23, .25, .28, or .30 gram bbs. So dont listin to Hunter
May 7th, 2009 at 1:06 am
Hey i just got this gun from a really good friend but he didn’t show me where the hop up was -_-’ can i get some help? its a well L96 and my bb’s curve at a certain point too. Any ideas will greatly help thanks
May 19th, 2009 at 5:06 pm
I have a Well L96 and i have played with it for a while
recently i tried to pull back and cock it but it didnt click when it got all the way back,. it just came back and went right back in Usually it will click and stay there.. how can i fix this?
May 21st, 2009 at 6:27 pm
Going back to what Airsoft Nerd said about not using the .12g bbs, it is deffinately better to use the 20g. or higher. First of all, I cannot see the .12g shooting anywhere strait with this gun. Second, it is not good to shoot bbs out of the gun that are so lite, shooting bbs at that weight is almost like dry firing the gun, and can dammage your bolt. Third, I even had small trouble using 20g bbs, even they curved a little bit. From my prospective the best bbs for this gun would be the Echo1 28g. bbs, they are $35 on Shorty Usa and they come with 4 or 5 thousand. (cant think of it off the top of my head) But in closing, I would deffinately reccomend 20g bbs or higher, for proformence, and for the safety of the gun.
May 28th, 2009 at 7:51 am
hi there guys i read these comments and people have said about the curved effected that happens after about 40-50ft this happens on most l96 between me and my friend we believe that it is the hop up not the barrel as he has a l96 fully upgraded to 750fps it still goes off to the left so it something you will have to get used too GS out.
May 29th, 2009 at 4:53 am
Im having problems take off my orange tip im pretty sure i have the warrior 1 and the orange tip will not pop off or unscrew i even tried vice grips but still nothing any help? anyone
June 1st, 2009 at 7:43 am
I’ve got an upgraded Well L96. Out of the box I experienced the same as others, in that the bb’s would curve away to either side after about 35 yards using 0.2’s or 0.25’s. The standard hop unit is pretty useless.
Upgraded mine with a new stainless cylinder, First Factory piston, head, cylinder head and metal spring guide, plus a Madbull 6.03 510mm AEG barrel and Laylax Aerochamber hop unit and four barrel spacers to keep the inner barrel absolutely true. It now shoots consistently at 440 fps with a 130 spring but the long range accuracy still leaves a lot to be desired. Using Madbull 0.4 g BB’s I can hit a 9in square steel plate consistently at around 40 yards but longer ranges than that and the bb’s are still moving away.
I’m currently trying out a 6.03 590mm barrel (from my RPK) in it (with a silencer to cover the extended inner barrel length) to see if that makes any difference to the accuracy at longer ranges. Also trying different hop rubber & nub combinations to see if that makes a difference as well.
For a rifle that fires at a consistent FPS there really should not be such a problem with shot to shot consistency, so I’m putting it down to either inconsistent spin from the hop or a problem with the shorter AEG barrel.
Will add further comments if I can sort the problem.
June 16th, 2009 at 8:03 pm
Hey guys i had a question about the .20g biodegradable bbs if i use this in my gun will i have a risk of damaging the barrel or jamming it, accuraccy issues, ETC?
June 17th, 2009 at 9:13 am
Camo,
If you use a high grade biodegradable bb such as KSC you should be fine.
June 21st, 2009 at 7:26 pm
i had a quick question about the hop up unit as i do get the curve from side to side after about 40 feet. My gun is brand new out of the box and the first day of shooting it does that. i dunno what the problem is.
and also is it turn left for more hopup or less?
June 22nd, 2009 at 11:27 am
24 Camo. From memory you need to turn the adjusting screw clockwise to increase the hop as it pulls down a ring which bears on the top of the hop rubber, increasing the tension and therefore the hop.
As yours is new, make sure you thoroughly clean out the inner barrel as they can be quite greasy. Also try using neavier ammo as 0.2’s are too light for it. Try 0.28, 0.30, 0.33, etc to see which gives you most consistency.
July 9th, 2009 at 6:30 am
For this gun would it be ok if I got .25 bbs airsplat branded?
July 9th, 2009 at 9:16 am
Airboy1, Yes. I used .30 bb’s with this rifle. They seemed to maintain their course the best due to their weight. However they do fly at slower speeds. I wouldn’t go lower than .25.
July 30th, 2009 at 10:56 pm
Hey I dissassembled my rifle, and found a little plastic white right that could fit either over the cylinder or between the barrel and upper reciever…do you know where it goes?
October 4th, 2009 at 1:15 pm
The reason for this side spin effect is because the hop chamber is not parallel to the gun it is slightly off and will always cuase side spin even if you use heavy bb’s. the only way to fix this is a new hop chamber made by PDI. it has 2 hop arms and enables you to re adjust your hopup for the off hop unit it is as simple as that!
October 4th, 2009 at 4:59 pm
to take off the cylinder head you can wrap electrical tape on the top and use pliers to unscrew it
October 10th, 2009 at 5:34 am
Guys,
could you help me?
i have a warrior L96, when i go to cock the gun it doesnt. the bolt just shots back to the uncocked positions.
any advice woul be cool.
cheers
October 15th, 2009 at 12:34 pm
I own a WELL L-96 rifle for about a year now. When I first got it every single shot would slide left after about 30 ft. I’ve taken it apart many times for cleaning and upgrading and only recently started to have issues with it.
The chronic pulling to the left is most deffinitely the hop-up, the easiest way to alleviate this is to loosen your hop-up completely, the less it contacts your BB the better (the stock hop-up is crap).
Another thing I found that helps ALOT is schimming the inner-barrel. The stock only comes with 3 dinky little foam spacers, I wrapped duct tape around the inner-barrel close to the nozzle very careful to not bend the soft brass, I also wrapped the spacers a few times and that took away the shots pulling to the left for about 50-60 ft.
I’ve always shot .20 gram BB’s, anything lighter DOES NOT WORK.
I still have stock everything, I have a 180 spring and a piston to install but the 180 spring won’t fit in the stock piston, and the upgraded piston won’t cock. I’ve measured the new piston against the old one and they are the same dimensions, I really have no clue why it won’t work. The other problem I have with the piston is it didn’t come with a rubber head and I can’t find one in stock anywhere! The link for the piston is below if anyone has run into the same problem.
The other issue I’m having now is the trigger box has started to crack, as everyone knows the stock trigger box is plastic, and not built to last, if anyone knows where I can find a replacement please e-mail.
Also if anybody has a detailed question please feel free to ask. Thanks in advance.
marcus.eisonei.promotion@gmail.com
*** PISTON ***
http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/upgrade-part/parts-upgrade-rifle/pistons/guarder-ultra-light-aluminum-piston-for-aps2-type-96-series.html
October 15th, 2009 at 6:51 pm
can anyone tell me how to remove the orange tip from my tsd l96. from what i understand it has threads so i dont want to strip the threads. also, if anyone one knows of a cheap threaded adaptor you can tell me of then u would be my best friend
please email:
davidfortier01@aol.com
December 5th, 2009 at 5:29 pm
for all of you that are having problems with your trigger boxes, you can buy a new cheap one at www.renegadeairsoft.com. i bought 3, one to replace my broken trigger box and then 2 extra just incase. they are around $14 i think. and david just unscrew it by hand, its a little hard but u can do it.
December 25th, 2009 at 5:10 pm
i just got a warrior l96 MB-01 for christmas and it has broken on the first day, i have no idea how but when i pull the cocking lever back it cocks fine but then it dont go all the way forward and iv taken the barrel and receiver back off again and found that the nozzle on the cylinder does not go into the barrel its somehow offset, any tips on this before i take it all apart because i really dont wanna send it back, and last time i sent a gun back it took almost 2 weeks to get it back and i have an upcoming skirmish to attend to soon. please help.
December 25th, 2009 at 6:23 pm
if it is a new weapon… send it back! Why even bother trying to fix it when you can get a brand new one that will be right from the start.
January 2nd, 2010 at 3:25 pm
would the hop up effect the accuracy of the gun?
And i use .28g bb’s… is that recommended?
January 9th, 2010 at 12:16 am
I have the utg version of this gun, and the manual recommends .24 or higher. I’m shooting .28 right now - I say go no lower than that.
My problem is with bb’s curving right after around 20 yards. I punch holes through a can easily from 20-25 yds, but difficult after that. Hop up is all the way down, and I’ve deoiled and cleaned the entire barrel, and they still jump right. The plan now is to disassemble, turn the barrel around, and see if they jump left. Anyone else have problems like this?
January 9th, 2010 at 12:25 am
Oh yeah also I superglued the spacers on the barrel to even them up.
January 10th, 2010 at 2:04 pm
Dan C,
Most likely your barrel is slightly bent. Seems to happen ALOT with the budget L96 rifles (from any brand).
January 18th, 2010 at 3:32 pm
Hey, do any of you guys know how to make this Warrior 1 L96 lighter in weight? I’m not sure if there are any weights in the gun, but I really want it to be a little lighter. Thanks in advance.
January 23rd, 2010 at 8:10 pm
I have a utg l96. the bb’s tend to go right even now and again, and it can be annoying. i want to upgrade it but for under 100 i want to throw the best in it i can. would someone mind telling me what to do?
February 3rd, 2010 at 12:10 pm
i own the warrior1 l96 made by tsd. my piston has been damaged and i require a replacement. i wish to upgrade all parts eventually but i dont know which parts to buy since they dont make specific parts for this gun. will internal parts designed for the APS2 work in the this rifle.
February 12th, 2010 at 7:31 pm
I’m hearing people say that you should use .12 BBs.They’re wrong.Shooting the light weight BBs is as bad as shooting without any ammo and it will,not shall,but will break the gun.Use .20-.30 BBs.It’s that or you can kiss your guns’ *** good-bye!Trust me,my friend had this experiance and he got so mad that he actually shot himself with his pistol.I don’t know why but it was funny.
Sincerely,
Ghost
February 20th, 2010 at 8:31 am
Hey guys! I just have one question. i know I might be stressin out about something that hasnt happened because I still dont have my gun but Ive heard that there is a problem with the barrel spacers of the L96. When you go to fix this, where should the spacers be positioned? I mean, should they be positioned on the ends of the inner barrel, close to the other, etc…? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
March 6th, 2010 at 12:57 pm
Hello I would just like to point out, that after having difficulty removing the outer barrel from the bolt housing, I realized that the small 1mm allen nut on the bolt housing close to the outer barrel MUST be removed prior to unscrewing the outer barrel. Just a heads-up to whoever wrote this disassembly guide. Also it is proven in numerous other videos
And bb’s wise I would actually recommend not going under .28-.30 gram bb’s. In fact it would be wise to use .36’s and .43’s, because unlike many of you that believe FPS is -liek-the-best-thing-on-an-airsoft-gun-evar, heavy bb’s actually increase range and fps at longer ranges because they are better able to retain their momentum and energy, unlike lighter bb’s which bleed off speed very quickly. It will still hurt to the same degree also, so slower does NOT necessarily mean your bb will drop very quickly and barely poke the opponent. This gun is well (pardon the pun) capable of shooting 460-470 FPS, which means with .36’s it’ll still shoot around 340-350 FPS, which is very respectable and will still reach the enemy very quickly.
Also heavy bb’s are less affected by wind. If you play on a windy day, expect your .20’s and .25’s to zip for a short distance and just float away to random directions. And expect your .30’s and .36’s and .43’s to gently home in onto your target lol.
The best brands for bb’s are Airsoft Elite, TSD, G&G, KSC, and Madbull. I am very satisfied with all of them, especially Airsoft Elite for their accuracy and TSD for their ridiculously low price vs. worth value. G&G makes good bio bb’s if your parents are concerned.
March 17th, 2010 at 12:48 pm
About the weight thing, there is weights in the body of this gun but if you take them out then gun will be heavy at the front and light at the back.
March 18th, 2010 at 2:39 am
How much hop is recommended for the Well MB-01 L96? I use .3 gram bb’s. Also, how much fps are the .3’s with this gun? Thanks. And im also looking for good and cheap parts for this gun (i just got it :D) so any suggestions would be friggin awesome people! my email: prosoccer27@gmail.com
I could use an expert’s advice!
March 25th, 2010 at 10:17 am
I bought this sniper rifle few days ago, and I had a problem with it, unable to shoot out bb. I use .2 gram.
Here’s the step:
Insert mag > pull cocking lever > pull the trigger > nothing happens > take out the mag > use cleaning rod to push the jammed bb out
I don’t know what happened to it, and when I bought this it said “upgraded nozzle” which I’m not sure if it’s the cause. And I saw your review for this rifle, you said the bolt action is very smooth? Well, I’m struggling with it. I will have to use great strength to pull the cocking lever back. I tried to adjust the hop up (if what I did is correct) but still the same, from left to right, still cannot shoot.
Any help would be appreciated ~ Thanks!
March 27th, 2010 at 8:17 am
I recently got this gun and I’ve been disassembling it. The cylinder and the trigger mech were easily taken apart and I added a .5″ duct tape spacer in the spring. When I got to the barrel, though, I took off the orange tip and to my surprise, found another orange tip that seems almost impossible to take off. Anybody have any insight into how to get this one off/remove the inner barrel?
March 27th, 2010 at 12:10 pm
Great Tutorial! Helped me a lot! Just one quick question. What size(s) are the allen wrenches that come with the gun. Lost mine :-/. Thanks a Million!
March 27th, 2010 at 12:16 pm
~~Xeon-
I had the same exact problem. Mine might be diffrent but what you have to do in make sure all the frame bolts are tight. Also make sure your clip goes all the way in, cause i have cut bb’s into 2 or even 3 pieces because it wasn’t feeding properly because of the clip. Hope that helps!
April 1st, 2010 at 8:38 am
Hmm, my frame bolts are not a problem. It do goes all the way in. The problem is the BB seems like can’t just be shot out. It remains in the hop up there after I pulled the trigger lol~
April 2nd, 2010 at 8:33 pm
hey can anyone give me some tips on converting this into a paintball marker?
April 11th, 2010 at 12:54 pm
Hey i happened to have lost my screw too the mag lock and i was wonderin where i could get one or can some one tell me the size and thread of it? email me at mjberry7@gmail.com
April 14th, 2010 at 8:35 pm
Hi i bought the warrior l-96 and i took out the inner barrel to fix the hop and when i started using tokyo marui 25g. bbs every 2 or 3 shots it will do a soft shot were it goes 10 fps and 2 to 7ft. how do i fix it?
May 5th, 2010 at 8:34 pm
i have this but the bolt wont go down so it wont shoot can any one help
May 6th, 2010 at 2:38 am
Fraymorg,
The barrel is already fixed at the hop up end, so just evenly space them from there to the front end. My last spacer is an inch or so from the muzzle.
May 6th, 2010 at 2:42 am
Fraymorg,
Just evenly space them all the way down the inner barrel. You can measure if you want, or just eyeball it. If you measure, just make sure you add one to the number of spacers to get the right distance apart.
May 6th, 2010 at 2:50 am
Armand,
Make sure your barrel is attached to the receiver firmly, and check your piston head for a bad seal. Also don’t work the bolt really fast, sometimes this will cause misfeeds or weak shots.
May 6th, 2010 at 2:57 am
Xeon,
Does the gun sound odd when you try to fire it? Maybe check the piston/nozzle - it doesn’t sound like pressure is even reaching the BB. Also make sure the bolt goes as far back as possible - from experience I know that it’s possible to feed a BB without actually cocking the rifle.
May 21st, 2010 at 11:32 am
Fantastic guide, but I need help with removing the trigger box..
I can’t seems to pull out the Trigger Lock like what the guide says, no matter how hard I tried pulling, it just won’t bulge =(
Any help?
Thank you.
June 3rd, 2010 at 6:55 am
hey fellas,
i dont know if anyone else has this problem but my l96 stock feels creaky and flimsy, ive got it tightened up as much as i can get it. this really annoys me. anyone know if you can get an aftermarket stock or any ideas how to fix that? also i use the gas bolt version, which works fine for me, but i was wondering if the gas bolt is upgradable at all. A good tip i heard for sniping is try not to touch the bbs with your fingers because oil from your skin could affect the accuracy.
July 3rd, 2010 at 2:31 am
Okay so i’ve been waiting for my .20 bbs, And i’v been using .12g bbs and it is rather impossible to zero in a sniper rifle with .12 bbs, right? oh and Are no name brand .20g bbs any good compared to well known bb brands?
July 4th, 2010 at 1:42 am
I have been using .16g bbs to zero in my scope for this and it isn’t working at all. My scope wont rise high enough to meet the bb’s landing area. D: Please help
July 7th, 2010 at 9:08 pm
hello y’all, can any one tell me the difference in the cut of the barrels? what i’m needing is a description or photos of the L96 barrel and a standered AEG barrel…
I have a well GAS L96 (gas in bolt type, like the g-22) and i can’t tell what type is in it not knowing the difference. the rest of the gun is part-for-part identical to the spring L96 but the hop up chamber looks slightly different from the photos i’ve been able to dig up…
thanx,
Brad
July 8th, 2010 at 3:10 pm
ok i got mine apart last night seems like there are two groves just after to opening for the hop up ( these are around the barrel) and the hop up holding slot is on the same side as the hop up opening… and a standered aeg looks like there are just two flat spots on the sides and the hop up slot is 180 deg. from the opening.
seems like all thats needed to fit a standered aeg barrel to the well, utg, tsd, ect. is to cut 3 slots 2 are easy to do (the ones around the barrel) the hop up slot is a bit trickier as it is parellel to the barrel.
has any one re-machined an aeg barrel to fit the type 96 chamber before?…
also I noticed that the barrel is very loose in the chamber do y’all think locking it in place better would help in consistancy?… i was thinking of adding 3-4 setting screws, maby using nylon setscrews, around the barrel to lock it in place…
any thoughts?
September 7th, 2010 at 12:47 am
What kind of bbs are you using. It matters. You cannot use .2 gram bbs in this kind of rifle. you need to use like .3 and up for shots that dont curve at all except if there is wind.
September 9th, 2010 at 2:59 pm
.3 is where its at.